Thursday, August 21, 2014

A South African safari to Madikwe

Almost weeks ago we had the opportunity to go on our first South African Safari.  Having spent almost 2 weeks on safari in January 2013 in Tanzania we were not in a big rush to do a safari upon our arrival here last year.  About 4 hours north west of where we live is the 5th largest game reserve in South Africa called Madikwe.  It borders Botswana and comprises almost 75,000 hectacres filled with the Big 5 (elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard, and rhino) and the rare Africa Wild Dog.  For 4 days we explored the park and our lodge with our good friends, the Healeys.
Love these trees that stand alone with all the bird's nests

We picked a lodge based on the fact that we would be traveling with small children and babies and needed activities to help entertain them when they were not allowed on the game drives.  Tau Lodge was recommended to us by a travel agent and since they had family suites and a kid's club with babysitters we thought it would be perfect.  On our first day there we were able to take the kids on the game drive since no others families were in our vehicle.

Adalyn, Reiter, and Kellan enjoying a pit stop
The kids enjoyed themselves and were able to see quite a few animals.  Adalyn made note to me that she really enjoyed the pit stop for food and drinks, I guess this girl is more of a foodie than a wilderness girl.  After the 3 hour game drive we arrived back at the lodge for dinner around the boma (fire pit).

On day two, the kids joined us again for the morning game drive, though Adalyn's interest in seeing the animals was wearing off.

I was surprised that the guide would allow us out of the vehicle during pit stops for drinks and food.
I kept thinking an animal was going to come join us.

Grant missed the whole thing as he slept right through the entire drive.  One of the best parts of the trip happened this morning when we were able to see a pack of lions right after they killed a wildebeest.



After the female and young male lions killed it, the older male lion took his share first but evidentially was not quite ready to give it to the others so he laid cuddling it for quite some time.
When we drove up next to this guy, he lifted his head, looked at us then laid back down.  
I guess when you are the King, you don't worry. 
 It was nice that Madikwe would allow the safari vehicles to venture off the road and into the bush so we could get a close up view.  Circling the safari vehicles was a hyena and a jackal waiting for their turn.

Jackel
Hyena
The guide said if the jackel and the hyena got close enough to the "kill" the lions would get up and chase them off.  None of the animals could have cared less that we were there, just part of the scenery to them I am sure.

After our morning game drive, complete with a coffee and hot chocolate pit stop, we headed back to the lodge for breakfast.  Next we checked out the kids club and figured it would be a good place for the kids to burn off some energy during the afternoon game drive which they could not attend as another couple was going to be with us and kids under 6 are not normally allowed on game drives at this lodge.  Little did we know that the kid's club was not as formal of a program as we had been told and with a few last minute changes, we hired some babysitters I stayed back with Grant and the kids while the others did the afternoon game drive.

Although I missed out on seeing more of the Big 5 I did enjoy the Little 5.  With a 5 year old, almost 4 year old, 3 year old, 1 year old and a 3 month old, it was nice that all the other guests of the lodge were on the game drive because the Little 5 enjoyed running wild.  All the other staff loved to interact with the kids while Grant and I tried to keep up.  I love that Adalyn has made such good friends here and was able to enjoy this experience with others.

Our rooms at the lodge were called Chalets which is basically a little home, though they usually only comprise of bedrooms, bathrooms and maybe a living area.  The best part of our chalets were that they faced right out onto a watering hole and the perfect spot to view animals stopping for a drink.  Several herds of elephants would come at all hours of the day to get a drink from the fresh water spout that was piped into the watering hole.
Throughout the park they have a few watering holes which have fresh water pumped into them.  The guide stated that the elephants preferred to drink the fresh water and bath in the watering hole which was dirtier. 

It was amazing to see a whole heard of 20+ elephants coming towards you.  

I thought this elephant looked like he was sucking his trunk.

The guide said the grey elephant is a different color cause he is from another herd and his color would match the landscape of where he was from.  All the other elephants moved out of the way when he came through. 

The elephants were beautiful, we saw some as young as 1 week old.  I think of all the animals, we saw more herds of  elephant than anything else. 

This picture is taken right outside of our chalet. 

When the elephants would come for a drink, everyone from the lodge would hurry over for pictures.
 The elephants would come all through out the day. 
 Buffalo, giraffes, wildebeest and many birds would come by for water and we all loved getting so close to them.  I am pretty sure the 4 foot high electric fence would not have stopped many of them from venturing to our side, but thankfully they did not try.
Lots of animals came for water, it was perfect to have this huge watering hole right by the lodge.  

Herd of buffalo coming for a drink.

We saw a few crocodiles, but this one stayed visible almost the entire time we were there.  

Giraffes are one of my favorite animals.  I love that you can be driving in the bush and see their heads above all the trees.  The giraffe was all alone and stopped for a drink.  We saw very few giraffes and they were always alone. 

On the third day's morning game drive we were able to witness 3 African wild dogs attempt to pull a kudu (African deer) out of the water which had run in there upon being attacked by the dogs.  Since the dogs do not like water it was quite interesting to watch them try to figure out how to get the kudu out, often times just taking a bite out of the kudu right in the water instead.
Wild African Dogs

Two African dogs taking a bite out of their kudu
 Since only 3 safari vehicles are allowed to be near the animals at one time, we took our pictures and after a bit moved on so another group of people could enjoy the scene.

Later that day the kid's went on their own safari scavenger hunt and we passed right by the scene where the kudu was attacked by the wild dogs.  Turns out the dogs were triumphant and manged to pull the kudu out of the water and enjoy their lunch.
What was left of the kudu.  The guide said the African dogs would only eat about 1/3 of the animals they kill and have to kill/eat twice a day so there is a lot of leftovers for everyone else. 
 The scavenger hunt lasted about 90 minutes though Adalyn was only interested for about 20 minutes then Ken and Barbie came out of the bag and enjoyed their first safari.  I guess after a year of living in South Africa, it just becomes normal to see animals so close up.  She will be in for a surprise when we return to the States and she realized she can't touch the animals as they are all behind fences.  I will say that after a while of being here you do forget that these are not normal experiences that others can have every weekend if they want to.

After another wonderful dinner around the boma, Jennifer Healey and I tested out the spa with an African Head and Foot Massage.  Not sure what aspects about it made it "African" other than we were in Africa, but it was quite relaxing and we enjoyed our time.  In fact the whole 4 days were quite relaxing.  Despite the kid's club not being an actual program as we had been informed of, everything turned out well.  Our guide was quite good, tracking down the Big 5 and as many other animals as he could find.
Kudu

Buffalo

Rhinos

Rhinos

Another herd of lions

Not sure why they were laying in these huge piles of ash.

Kudu

Did not see too many zebras

Baboons

Lonely giraffe
Leopard enjoying his meal in the trees
We followed this group of 4 African wild dogs as they hunted for their next meal.  It was strange to see a fence around the park as that was not our experience in Tanzania, but safety first.  The guide stated they would scare an animal into the electric fence as their way to kill it before sinking their teeth into it. 
The food and accommodations were quite nice and it was a great first experience of a safari in South Africa.  Tanzania is still #1 in my book but I hope to go on a few more safari's here at other parks to compare and experience what they have to offer.  Safaris are about experiencing the wildlife and I felt we accomplished that, getting to enjoy it with friends was the icing on top.    


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