A view from the top

This past weekend we took the aerial cableway to the top of Hartsbeespoort for a view of South Africa like no other.  After a 45 minute drive from where we live in Pretoria we loaded up into the gondolas to ride to the top.  I was quite surprised by how updated and new the entire place looked.  After being originally constructed in 1973 and shutting down for 5 years before re-opening in 2010, it was neat to see the new gondolas compared to the old ones which looked like a ride from World's of Fun.

A steep 15 minute ride up the mountain provided a great view.  It was amazing how much the view looked like anywhere else in the world, except for the beautiful purple Jacaranda trees dressing up the landscape.

View looking at the top

View looking down

Adalyn was most interested in watching the other gondolas go by. 

Once at the top we enjoyed a nice trail walk with our friends the Hartzs.  The 360 degree view was spectacular.  

The trail had interest points along the way pointing out areas in the distance and since the sky was clear we could pretty much see them all. 

Complete with a playground and bounce house, there was plenty to entertain the kids who might not have enjoyed the view as much as the adults.   

After some fun we visited the gift shop then sat down for lunch with friends.  If you like hamburgers drenched in sweet chili sauce, then you must visit this place as I think ours were swimming in it.  But like most South African dishes I find, the sauce seems to be very important and either I need to get used to it or order it on the side.  Either way, with full bellies we headed back down the mountain and enjoyed the view along the way. 

It was a nice morning spent discovering another aspect of Africa.  We look forward to going back again as the area has much to offer.  

Missing my American food

When I think about what I miss most about America, it is family and friends of course, but next in line is food.  Sure Africa has a lot to offer and I can make most of my American recipes but they don't taste the same.  There are very few American brands and even when you find one, the product does not necessarily taste the same as back home.  For instance, Old El Paso taco sauce.  Mexican food is hard to come by here so when I make my own recipes I sometimes have to get creative.  I have yet to find a good taco sauce so have been spending the $3+ on the 4 ounce jar of Old El Paso and it still does not taste the same.  Finding good tortillas is a challenge as well.
One would think Italian food would be pretty clear cut here, but the pasta sauce just taste odd.  I am sure in different parts of the world they use different spices and I have not become accustomed to the pasta sauce just yet so we have steered clear of Italian for the most part.  Items such as fruits and vegetables taste the same to me, but the meat taste different.  Instead of calling it hamburger or ground beef, they call it mince meat and the texture is different.  I have been going through my cook books weekly and trying new recipes as some of my old ones just have not panned out.
But then there is baking which I love to do so have been trying a new dessert recipe every week.  The brown sugar here is a thicker texture of granules and more of a molasses taste but seems to work well.  There is no canned pumpkin so some of the great fall desserts I am seeing everyone pin on Pinterest is just going to have to wait until I am back in the states as I am not spending the time to cut up a pumpkin, boil/roast it and turn it into canned pumpkin.  Any dessert with Cool Whip is usually out for me unless I want to use the shake and squirt cans or make my own.
I am going to have to up my creativity and step out of my comfort zone otherwise cooking is going to become bland for the Snyders.  Luckily Mark will eat anything and since Adalyn eats fairly traditional African meals at school she is pretty game for anything.  No need to worry we are not going hungry, and eating out is always a good experience, but my good ole American food is surely missed.  We arrive in the US in 6 weeks and I think I may overindulge in Mexican, comfort food, Italian and pretty much anything I can get my hands on that I can't make in South Africa.

A slower pace of life

Life in South Africa has it's similarities to life in the US, but with one main difference, a slower pace of life.  Living in the US there was this underlying current of competition among moms. Whether it be centered on their kid's achievements, what homemade meal they prepared or even what outstanding Pinterest craft they made overnight.  And with Facebook everyone can boast their achievements in your face all day long.  Yes I am proud of what my family and friends can accomplish but there is always the need to one up each other.  Well a move to South Africa is definitely the cure for that.

As soon as we landed in South Africa it became quite apparent to me that life moves at a slower pace here and none of the locals seem to mind (or maybe it is just that they know no other way of life).  From the start we could see that dining out was about an experience and not just grabbing a quick meal with your family.  The waiters give you as much time as you like to linger over your meal and enjoy the ambiance, never giving you the bill without asking for it first.  All of which is great if you have the time, but honestly a simple lunch here takes about 2 hours and I am not eating multiple courses.  It does remind me to enjoy my food more and the company I am with so it is a change I have embraced.

In the US if you had a service company coming to your home you would normally be told a date and time frame and often enough you would get your needs met in that time.  Not here in South Africa where I have experienced that service companies show up whenever they please not caring that they gave you a date for when they would arrive.  I have come to realize there is no sense in complaining as that is just how things work in this country.  Whether it be a garden service or internet provider, despite being told, "I am coming now" it ends up being a week or more before they show.  I have learned to not bother sticking around the house, if they show great and if not, there is always another day.

Not all services in South Africa are slow and thankfully the I have experienced fast health care when it mattered.  I am sure when some issue is pressing the slow pace will get the best of me but overall I am enjoying this relaxed lifestyle.  There is less pressure on the kids at school and more focus on play, at least in the pre-school setting.  People seem to be friendlier, which I am guessing is from a happier lifestyle with less stress.  I am sure having full time help at home to do all your cleaning plus a gardener in a home where you rent so any needs are taken care of by the estate agent all help to eliminate stress.  I am going to have to convince Mark that since I have become used to this new lifestyle with help, we must keep it up when we move.  He probably has a different idea.

I have learned to be flexible and go with the flow and not feeling the need to compete with other moms is welcoming.  I often find myself shrugging my shoulders and reminding myself "this is Africa" and there is nothing I can do about it so I should stop trying to make it America.  For a Type A personality like mine this move seemed to be just what was needed.

Shopping and charity all from the comfort of your car

Here in South Africa there is no need to get out of your car to do a little shopping and at the same time you can give to charity.  On every major intersection there are several people walking between cars when the light is red either trying to sell you some goods, hoping you will donate to their charity or just asking for recycling and a bite to eat or drink.

Pretty much all day every day you can't pull up to a red light without being approached by someone.  It is best to keep your window rolled up otherwise your car is going to get a bit more attention than the others.  So what can you buy?  Everything form sunglasses, wiper blades, metal roosters, drinks, car phone chargers and wind up toys.

Selling hats

I once saw a guy wind up a toy dog and put it on the hood of a person's car then do a dance just to make sure the driver saw it I guess.  I rarely see anyone buy anything but of course they would not stand there if it was not profitable.

Selling sun glasses

If you are not in the shopping mood, then there is always a charity to give too.  Mostly I see people with signs stating they are raising funds for traumatized victims or a shelter.  They often have a cash box complete with lock you can slip your money right into.  On a drive to the grocery store I will see about 25 people on the road with items to sell and only a few people outright asking for donations for themselves.  Most of the time in the US, the people on the side of the road want your spare change, and given the state of this country you would think people would be doing that all day long, but it is not as common.  Of course seeing the moms on the side with a baby on their back is hard, especially since they stand so close to moving traffic.

At the corner before turning onto the road that leads to my community there is a young guy in his late teens probably who will come up to your car with a trash bag in his hands and hold out his hands as if he was praying for you to give him trash.  Mostly he collects recycling but he is very pleased when people give him bits of food or even a half drank water bottle.  I once saw a woman give him a package of black socks.  You could easily spend quite a bit of money helping all the people on the road in South Africa.

metal and wood work along with cup and plate holders

Now if you have the time and want to at least venture out of the car a bit, there is plenty for sale on the side of the road.  From handmade picnic benches to metal birds and lattice wood work everything is negotiable and right there for the taking, that is if you can fit in your vehicle.







I did not get a picture of it, but there are 3 signs in a row made out of wood and metal work that say "Peace", "Love", and "Hoop".  I get a chuckle out of it every time I pass by.  Maybe I should just buy it.

bedside tables, headboards and privacy fences (I think)

Metal birds

 But maybe you need wood for the braai (bbq) or a dog house, no need to stop at a store, it's all right there on the road.

If you are looking for someone to paint your house, mow your lawn or help inside the home, there are about 50-75 people daily that stand about 50 yards outside the gates to our community each morning looking for work.

The painters will display all their rollers each day. 

 Our relocation rep told us that most of them are in South Africa illegally from other countries and it is best not to employ them, but someone has to be doing it otherwise they would not stand there.  I have seen a car pull over to the side of the road to inquire about employing someone and to see the flood of people go up to the driver's window was interesting.  The amount of people camped out during the day has even lead to one lady putting up a grocer's stand to sell goods for the people to eat and drink as they wait patiently for work.  There are 2 grocery stores just on the other side of that building pictured, but I bet she can beat their prices.

 I sadly did not get a picture of the amount of people as stopping my car would not have been the best idea.  As you drive by they will hold up a finger to let you know they are interested in work, but I can't imagine I would bring someone into my home whom I just met on the side of the road.
I find it quite impressive the clever ways South Africans have come up with to sell you things, always smiling and welcoming as you pull in line for the red stop light.  I have yet to buy anything but I sure there will come the day when something catches my eye and I go for it.

Soweto, a look back at segregated townships

This past weekend Mark and I took a 6 hour tour of the area known as Soweto.  This area compromising 5 million people consist of formal and informal townships that were a product of segregation starting in 1904.  Originally built to house black laborers who worked in the gold mines, now has transformed into a bustling area but still has much growth to do.  In the 1950s more blacks were relocated to Soweto due to the segregation policy taking root.  Soweto first gained attention in 1976 with the student uprising to overcome segregation and it's imposed policies.  Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu also had homes in this area which we were able to see.  The culture of the area is rich and many advancements have been made though there is a long road ahead for some.

The tour group of 5 couples along with our guide who is a resident of Soweto, Richard, first viewed the homes which are said to be mansions for the area.  Homes in this area were about 3-4 bedroom homes with approx 2,000sq feet.  Some of the homes were very modern and others traditional in nature, all blended together to form a nice community.

Richard was so proud of this area and kept commenting on how there is no crime in this part of Soweto.  It was different to see homes without fences but about every 3rd home would have one with an electrical fence on top.  When asking Richard why some homes had additional security, he would just say they were paranoid. He said there is a great neighborhood watch program and if you are caught stealing then you are publicly beaten and the police don't do anything about it.  I guess that's one way to stop crime from happening.  We spent quite a bit of time in this area as Richard was so proud to show us all the nice homes.

  

Next we traveled to another type of settlement within the Soweto townships originally built for the black miners for the gold mines.  Today they house families, who are also able to farm right outside their front doors.  

Pictured are the homes all built in a row and each home has 2 rooms, one for sleeping and one for cooking and eating.  The homes did have electricity but no running water.  The picture below shows a man and woman washing their clothes in a basin using the communal tap water provided to the area.  It was amazing how clean their clothes were washing them this way.  Portable toilets serviced by the government were scattered throughout.

Upon entering the township the smell was overwhelming as there is no trash service.  Richard said they would burn their trash at certain times, but otherwise it was lying all over the ground.  Pictured below is a chicken coop and fenced in area for goats.  When speaking to the locals they said they used the goats for meat and cows for milk.  Even though there was a pin and coop, the animals would roam around hence the smell of feces was quite strong as well.

Richard said there are schools within the settlement and there is one lady who will watch after all the toddlers while the parents are working or finding work.  Watching kids walk through the area barefoot with trash and feces all over the ground was quite heart wrenching. The smell was bad but did not even compare to the next stop.  

Right across from the homes were new government built townhouses which sat empty.  Richard said that the government wants to rent them out instead of a rent to own option so the residents in the area have boycotted the homes.   

Up next we visited the informal townships comprised of homes made out of corrugated metal and other resources.  Once we stepped out of the van I thought I was going to loose my breakfast.  The smell was much worse than the last township and it was quite difficult to even walk through the homes.  Once again they do not have trash service and the reluctance to do anything but throw it on the ground was apparent.  There was a black stream of water running through the township among the trash.  If they only had access to simple trash cans or trash service it would make a world of difference.  This township also does not have running water or electricity.  One local told us that they will steal electricity and when the electric company comes to take it away, they will put it right back together the next day.  He said they do not feel bad about stealing electricity since the government was to build them proper homes with utilities.  

We walked through the township until we came to a young woman's home who allowed us to go inside and visit with her.  Pictured below is her home comprised of 2 rooms, one for cooking and eating and the other room is a bedroom for her parents.  She said 9 people lived in this home and she and her siblings and her 2 year old daughter sleep on the kitchen floor.  Upon stepping inside her home the heat would hit you.  It was about 80 degrees outside but inside the little home it was a good 95+.  With only one window that did not let in a breeze, I was impressed she was able to cook inside.  It is quite amazing how resourceful the entire community is.  

The young woman said they cooked on this stove but mostly used the paraffin stove that is on the top burner. She said she gets 200 Rand or $20 US dollars a month from the government for her child but it barely covers milk and a few basic necessities.  She finished high school and hoped to be a flight attendant but after the birth of her daughter at age 17, she was not able to.  She was very mature, open, and welcoming as was everyone in the township.  I appreciated that they would share their lives with us so we could learn about their culture.  

Below is the dining room where the young woman and her siblings would sleep.  I was quite impressed at what they had found to decorate with.  I did not expect much to be inside these homes, but her family had done a great job making it a home. 

When asked about the prevalence of Aids she said Malaria was more of a concern for her neighborhood.  Someone in our group also asked her how she felt about the government.  I was shocked to hear her say that her 104 year old grandfather actually thought life was better under Apartheid and her family did not feel like the current government had followed through on their promises.  I can only imagine the life her family has lead that they would prefer a segregated culture in which their race is legally treated inferior to others.  At this point, our guide, Richard joined in the conversation and stated the opposite and that he believes things are better now.  It is too bad our conversation was cut short due to time as it was a great learning experience. 

The young woman did say that she is worried the government is going to come and tear down her township as that is what is planned and she would not have a place to live.  She does not feel that even if the government offered better housing that her family could afford it so they would rather stay where they are.    

Pictured below is another home.  I was quite surprised to find the homes have addresses as you can see written on the walls.  The top number is the old address as the government has changed the numbering recently and the bottom number is the new address. 

More pictures of homes as we walked through the township. 

I thought it was quite interesting they would make fences for their homes to designate a patio of sorts for themselves. 

We were able to meet the priest to the church pictured below in white with the blue flag waving.  

View of the homes and how close they all are.  You can see how the roofs are made and why they leak so often during the rainy season.  It was humbling to walk through this township and made me appreciate all the things I take for granted that are not even an option for the people who live here.

Our next stop was actually the mall.  It was a nice built mall, resembling ones you will find in the US.  Richard was quite proud of this mall and even wanted to take us inside.  He would point out the luxury cars in the parking lot and mention time and again how the rich do live in the area, as if he did not think we believed him.  Upon leaving the mall parking lot all vehicles had to shut off their engines to prove that the vehicle was not stolen, this included our tour van as well.  It was nice to see him so proud of his community and the smile on his face as he showed us around.  He said a few whites did live in the area, though most of them are German.  

After our mall detour, we stopped at the Hector Pieterson Museum to gain a closer look at the Apartheid movement.  The museum was named after Hector as he was the youngest child shot on the day of the uprisings which school children protested against having Afrikaans be the language taught in the township schools.  You can see the 13 year old being carried in the picture to the left after being shot. 

It was a great museum filled with countless articles, pictures and videos capturing this time in history.

Right around the corner was the Nelson Mandela House Museum.  He lived in this home with his 2nd wife for a few months before being imprisoned and came here after being released 27 years later.  

Nearing the end of our tour, we were able to drive by one of the gold mines.  

Quite pretty and scenic for the area.  

I am very glad I went on this tour to see a part of the country I might never have visited on my own. 

 Rooted in history the people of Soweto have much to be proud of.